DIY Shou-sugi-ban Wood Burning Torching Technique on Pine

Love Of The Grain Workshop
Here is a simple DIY video of the few steps it takes to create a stunning one of a kind piece of charred wood. Using the Shou-sugi-ban technique. A Japanese technique of charring or burning wood for a water & fire resistant wood surface. Which by the way is absolutely stunning to look at.

Step 1- lightly charred version.
I lightly charred the surface which makes the pine look like zebra skin. A black and white colored striped look. If this is the desired look, move onto the sealing step below.

Step 1-heavily charred version.
If you want the heavily charred deep embossed look. You need to heavily charr the wood. Evenly until the wood crackles or wrinkles up on the surface. The more you charr it, the more embossed the finished product will look.

Step 2-wire brush.
Using a wire bristle brush scrub the charred surface in the direction of the wood grain only! Removing all the crinkled burnt wood and any other loose charr. No need to dig deep with the brush. If you still want it to have a more embossed look. You can then again charr it and then repeat this step of scrubbing it.

Step 3- sanding
Using either an orbital sander or by hand you need to now sand the surface smooth. Use 220 grit sand paper for this. Making sure to get down into the lighter colored crevices that have been created. Try to remove as much of the wire scratches as possible. This should create an ultra smooth finish.

Step 4-sealing
Now you want to make sure it’s thoroughly wipe cleaned and dusted off. Use a tack cloth if you have one to remove everything. The more you clean the dust off. The smoother it will be in the end. In this video I sealed it with a water based Polyurethane. You can use an oil based or even something like danish oil or lacquer.

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Comments

finton says:

Obviously this method is cosmetically appealing, but how much surface char must we leave to achieve the water-proofing benefits of Shou-sugi-ban ?

John S says:

Love this technique! I just completed a 3-piece patio sectional made from Pine. I finished it with shoshugibon and teak oil. I used a weed torch it and it looks amazing!

emanuele alt says:

What kind wood is it?

Tony Kibbie says:

Dude! On top of your table saw? Seriously? Do it outside on the concrete!

Dwiqi Praptawan says:

Is there any thickness different before and after ?

Judith Copeland says:

Very nice demo., especially for someone like myself trying to learn….Thank you.

Licorice Whips says:

why not do Brazilian Rosewood oil? my plan is to torch some “sheathing exposure” Georgia Pacific plywood (I don’t know what it’s called) and use that to be the walls of my boondocking truck camper. do you think the char would come off when touched after the Brazilian Rosewood treatment and sun exposure or ? I’ve never done the shou sugi bahn method on any thing ever, thanks in advance for any advice/knowledge you’ve got to lay down!

Jeffrey Maganya says:

Tsws
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Ymrjn I struggle

Eh oh says:

Your music sucks! This is not a daycare. Kill the xylophones!!!!

Trevor O'Brien says:

worst music ever

426 SUPER BEE says:

Like it lighter than dark the 1st application was perfect

Eh oh says:

I hope you don’t use that table saw

Tague Relyea says:

Or as we common folk say wood burning

Tony Terril says:

Can this technique be used on some like salad tongs to make it food safe? Great video by the way! Definitely subscribing!

Dan Limbach says:

Very nice technique. How has the Polycrylic held up over time? Any flaking? I’ve seen techniques where boiled linseed oil is applied in 2 layers and water beads off the wood. BLO becomes part of the wood, whereas poly sits on top of the wood. I may just have to experiment.

Rob Barry says:

Hey there. i absolutely love this finish you’ve achieved. I’m building a bar at the moment with strips of 1×4 for the bar top, biscuit joined together, and I want to use this effect on the strips. Would you suggest joining the strips first then burning etc, or should I apply the burn to the individual strips then join after?

Pyroclastic Flow says:

Is it because pine has a high resin content that you are able to achieve this finish?

BarryFromEastenders says:

What did u use to seal it , any particular product? Did u go over that then with a poly /varnish?

Iron Will says:

This “reverse charing” technique you use, have you done bigger projects using this method like custom chairs etc..

Love Of The Grain Workshop says:

Yes there will be due to the burning and scraping process removing wood from the surface. But not much

Artanyia1 says:

Way better than staining

Peter Dods says:

Dude. You killed it! Awesome stuff

BuckySwang says:

Now….how do you keep the wood from warping due to the heat like that?

Jason Pruitt says:

What shade of water based poly did you use? How many coats?

Lawrence Carlson says:

I’m new to wood working and my first large project is a basic computer desk. I really like this technique. What finish did you use at the end?

miguel Becerra says:

Beautiful job

waspswatter says:

Alternating cutesy music and loud palm sander sounds? Thumbs down.

is da vog says:

I wonder how this would work or look on pak

eddyoddrod says:

I believe this is an ancient way of weather proofing wood without using sealer

B. Wat. says:

has anyone ever tried this technique with a pressure washer to get rid of the unwanted black instead of nylon/steel brushes??… of course you would have to let it dry, but I figured if you were doing mass quantities… it would be less labor intensive and leave less too marks there fore less sanding… ? just more dry time…  any thoughts???

BarryFromEastenders says:

When u sanded it, did it go completely smooth or leave raised ridges where the burned grain is. Looks like that in final image. Not that that’s a bad thing. Just wondering if I should be going fully smooth. Also was that clear coat or a coloured stain ?

Explore With Mitch And Burn That Wood says:

Absolutely Gorgeous. Does it matter with the torch with the grain or against? also was that an orbital sander?

John Burger says:

The table saw top is not a workbench not a good practice to mistreat your table saw. nice work

Cory Patterson says:

I don’t know about you, but I paid way to much for my table saw to use it like that.

Iron Will says:

Great great tutorial

Grey Wolf67 says:

Great job, looks awesome. Can’t wait to do this. Thanks for the lesson.

svborek 1975 says:

So you used not a wood sealer but a clear coat.

Randy Spires says:

Ok…now what? U created burnt wood?

Freedom says:

Just beautiful

Georgie says:

What kind of sea-lent did you use? I tried a Varathane sealant and it just turn the would black.

loskatiponeros says:

Do suggest sanding it first before burning it or the other way around?

Amber Hatfield says:

Hello! Thanks for the video! This is exactly what I have been looking for! I am installing what is considered “carbonized” barn doors in my home and need to use this method for the header board (the first method, less char). In doing so, should I seal the wood before attaching to studs? What is the method if the header will be installed against painted sheet rock after? Should I expect any chipping or would sealing the wood prevent that? To get the same effect as the first minute of the video, should I char then seal? Sand before sealing or not at all? Please advise. Thank you!

Tlahuicole XIII says:

How to make charcoal.

MARTIN MATHEE says:

I have been doing this for awhile had no idea it was called SHOU-SUGI-BAN. THANKS FOR THE VIDEO .I SUBCRIBED WELL DONE

Dagny says:

This should work on decent plywood as well correct?

Bob Frood says:

Thanks, will try your suggestions. Will have to use a jointer, not a thicknesses , as roller of latter would damage burnt face.

Ron Miller says:

I’ve got a build that requires wood against aluminum siding and there’s likely to see mold since the metal side will be outside in the weather. My question is, does should sugi ban protect against molds? Also, if the wood is painted, does it still guard against mold?

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