This is the fastest way to install a new Shower Valve.Learn how to use the torch effectively.
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good job
Good video however I would never, ever do that without eye protection. Kind of one of the very first lessons learned.
Compression fittings would be much better that is what the threads on the fitting are for.. What is soddering?
would’nt adding flux to the copper tubes be a good idea or do you think the flux works its way in the joint?
Hey Jeff, loving the videos as always. Here’s my standard bathroom remodel project I mentioned some time back. Wouldn’t have been possible without your channel!
https://imgur.com/a/uM7KX
Having no access panel is going to be a pain in the ass later…
Question: Why are there a set of pipes going up and down ? Does the supply come from bottom and shared to shower adjacent ?? I sweat my valves as well, regardless of the threads on them. Kudos on setting the wallboard on the LIP of the tub & not the edge, many are not aware.
Great video, but personally I would go with a pex replacement. Makes it foolproof.
great video!
I was wondering why those piece of pipe stub sticking after valve inlets in all your videos. I assume it is done for a reason. Perhaps to stop hammering sound when pipe heats up?
I get the idea of making it simple but isn’t the green on the copper pipes an indication of water leakage? It seems like those joints should have been resoldered?
Can you still use soft solder inside wall in Canada?
One more for the road..lol
Always scared to solder pipes, but, might give it a try. You make it look easy. Thanks.
Another great video!!! Do you have a video on how to install a P trap to a bath tub? Thanks for
sharing.
Map gas eh?
Old school, yes. It works – I learn I lot on this channel. Old news – you are still “the man.”
You make things look so simple….love your channel
Great content as always!
is there only one particular brand of solder we can use what did you use in the video bro n the shower valve looks like it’s a moen
Can you do a video of valve replacement with shower tub and walls in place? Thanks.
Now I know…..another one down.keep em going Reno Ninja
I like oldscool. What’s working for 50 years can’t be that bad.
Thanks for making these videos! I’ve learned a ton and I’m sure many others have as well 🙂 Congrats on the 100k subs!
I love the video but much like your other how to videos I find the music distracting. It’s a really cool video and well produced but if you can scrap the music it would be easier to follow. Thanks for the video love your stuff!
Man, your content is awesome. Thanks for the all the help. Question: on the hot and cold supply lines, why is there an extra foot or so of copper above the brass valve housing that just gets capped off? does that help with flow or something? Why not just use an elbow joint there instead?
Would it be better to put a bracing board on the back of the valve and the supply lines? Would that also eliminate the need for the water hammer piping?
I learn alot here like the other program on your channel. thank you
nice work
so why are the hot and cold water lines extended so far past the brass faucet? i only really see this done with copper pipe and not with other materials like PEX.
Thank you for the great video. You said 10 minutes in the title but you have a 18 minutes long video LOL.
You do the most helpful DIY videos. I was going to use compression fittings for the shower pipe for a valve installation I have to do, but after watching this, I’m going to give this method a try. Still going to use pex for the hot and cold because I’m using a valve with a different width. Love the toilet cooling, too. That wouldn’t have occurred to me.
Great video ! But have few comments.
1st some of the copper pipes are type M which can’t be use for hot and cold water. U have to use type L copper pipe.
2nd Our days we have to use lead free solder. When u try reusing old solder First u over heat the pipe. Second old lead solder is still there.
So over all u saved about $40 on material but in my opinion didn’t bring up to code. Good luck
Jeff, HELP! I’ve removed the screws from the face and unscrewed the trim covering the line into the wall, but the handles will NOT come off. What am I missing? I can’t imagine they seized on that tight… Suggestions??
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I’ve never been confident enough to solder so I just use the Sharkbite fittings and PEX.
What’s the reason that the cold and hot water pipes go so far past the valve and then are capped off?
Never knew you could heat the soldering back to make the pipe come out ! Very helpfull video as always 🙂
why not just cut the old pipes out and fit new ones in?