2,000 gallon aquarium, filtration and plumbing! UPDATE!!

In today’s update of the aquarium gallery, The running water and plumbing is almost done! Panels are ready to being installed! Final coat of epoxy has cured on the 2000 gallon monster fish tank, filtration is ready to be built and plumbing the tank has begun.
wife is also no longer angry with me for destroying the yard…

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The king of DIY aquarium projects, tutorials, how to’s.

Join me each Thursday for an aquarium topic of the week.
Sunday’s we focus on a DIY aquarium project, tutorial or an aquarium build series.

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Inzamamulhaq Haq says:

Hi I saw the panel installed in integram waiting to see that vedio so excited

MaddenMobileGames says:

Can someone tell me if a 55 gallon can fit 1 full grown Oscar or 1-2 cichlids (electric blue and or yellow and jewel? Please thanks 🙂

Qua Phan says:

flower horn vs arrowana…..who would win???

Hugo Lopez-Fuentes says:

To place the acrylic u should get a styrofoam sheet (same size as the panels) and put it were u want them to go and just make holes in the styrofoam sheet fist and then u put them over the real ones and paint tru the holes so it would make it more easy

Darrin Hawkey says:

i would not do the mp60s i would go with 2 of VarioS-8 Controllable DC Pump (2700 GPH) – Reef Octopus in each corner

konzertino says:

Hi Joey, Love your videos.
Those corner panels should look great, but I’m a bit worried – are you able to reach the bottom/clean behind them when they inevitably get dirty/drob something in there?

Me Geal says:

Aren’t you going to get a stagnant pool behind the corner panels?

Tjeerd Spruijt says:

Heey, Did you already use the “concrete anchors”? If your sheets of acrylic glas are big enough, you could glue them together in the corner! this way it would be impossible for them to fall…

Bartosz Pucilowski says:

J. if you would paint the pump conner acrylic holders white at the back it would looks much better and will hide all cabling and dust build up over time.

SCoxDruin says:

So excited to see the end results! GOOD LUCK DUDE!!

Jay Black says:

Joey – pre drill the holes into the acrylic, make a carboard template to transfer the holes to the concrete, glue, line up and bolt down

Ali Mohamed says:

i bro. i am in process to attach my 19 mm glass to my concrete tank. i thought to use an iron metal 2.5 inch angle


doing a frame of it matching my glass measurements, drill it on my concrete as frame then i will stick glass on it with silicon.

let me know what do u think about it.

sean hunt says:

Absolutely genius on the WaveMaker

Zeenath Tamton says:

what happened to ur discus

Melleefrase says:

Joey I am sure you have researched a ton more than I have so not sure if my idea would work but I will put it out there for it to be considered. My idea is for the acrylic panels to be cut so they slide into the windows of the aquarium until they are flush with the inside of the aquarium OR… router the edges of the panels so there is an edge around the window that you could put the screws into. If either of these would work you could have thick pieces of acrylic left over for something else.

AncientMantis says:

Time to unsubscribe. This channel has gone from giving awesome and useful DIY tricks to random and useless jabber. Great for those who like to follow this build but it’s no longer a DIY channel. Bummer!!! It was a good one.

JIm Hribnak says:

AWESOIME idea on mounting the MP60s Joey!! and paint acrylic White as well

Science&NatureVlog says:

This man is living the dream, I can’t wait to see the end result.

Manila Family says:


Theo Papadakis says:

measure it first but drill the acrylic then offer it up to the concrete and mark it then drill it hopefully that should be the safest solution

Peyton King says:

Can you make the king of diy popsockets and sell the aquarium gallery is finnished

Hamza shahid says:

This is hard work !

Dallas Smedberg says:

Awesome videos! On the circulating pumps, what about painting them white so they match the interior of your tank. If you leave it clear then you’ll see the wires hanging down. What do you think?

MasterAquatics says:

7:49 ” ive got two phones! ” kevin gates

Green Shiva says:

This project is absolutely amazing. I can’t wait for the next update!!

Matt Sorrentino says:

Paint the acrylic. Hanging wires in the corner of the tank will look bad.

V Lino says:

don’t drill thru

Qua Phan says:

panels so heavy and big Joey…time to call a friend???

NiccoHel says:

Honestly, I don’t see why you didn’t build-in an inset ledge for the acrylic panels to fit into when you made the concrete form in the first place, but what’s done is done.

Do a google search for “mirror clips” and make or buy brackets that are similar but appropriately sized. Don’t bother with drilling the acrylic at all, just the concrete, and use epoxy set bolts, like Mix Medley suggests below, to hold the clips in place. The clips are as simple as bending some stainless flats/bars into shape.

E: Also, Peter Topp has a great idea too:

“Regarding the viewing panels: I’d forgo the fasteners and route a 1 inch square rebate around the border of both panels and inset them into the viewing area. This gives a 2 inch surface area per length for sealant, a 1 inch ledge for the weight of the acrylic to sit on and a 1 inch internal flange for the weight of the water to push against he concrete – further helping to leak proof the whole window. The internal flange will still be over half an inch thick and so will be more than enough to do the job.”

jharmantas says:

You will have GREAT DIFFICULTY lining up the MP60s magnets at the bottom of the compartments, actually it will be impossible, it will keep popping off on you. It takes grabbing both the inside and the outside at the same time, and sliding them around until perfectly aligned. I hope your arms are long enough.

Piranha Fish says:

could u use those adjustable ceiling supporters that builders use ? for putting the acrlic in place

Cheyenne Goldfish says:

Very exciting! I cannot wait to see what it will look like with decor and all. I hope the arowana does well here.

sheldon jessup says:

I like the pumps all on the filter room side and paint the acrylic white so it blends in

Chad Hardesty says:

Joey be careful with those anchor bolts you have to drill deep into the concrete if you don’t the bolts will not tighten up what I would do put your viewing panels in place drill a hole through the viewing panel then a concrete drillbit and drill through the concrete so that way you have your holes lined up but be very careful because those anchor bolts do not come back out

Pavol Sojak says:

What about not drilling the front panels at all? rather use another narrow strip of acrylic as holders. Drill one holder to the bottom of the tank right next to the bottom of the front panels. So you will end (looking from top) with front concrete wall, front acrylic, strip of acrylic next to each other. Then either secure the sides in similar way with strip of L shaped acrylic holders, or you may get away with just smaller pieces near the top. the idea is to ensure that your acrylic front panels will not move away from concrete walls. and as other suggested the water pressure will do the rest. all these holders will be in the corners, so once you install your corner pumps it will be covered nicely. I would install the bigger one first and then in the front corner position the smaller one to brace the big one.

Don Lewis says:

Hey Joey, good luck with the panels!

Exil says:

drill the panel first, try making the 4 holes square so everything look nice and use a drill size a tad bigger than the 3/8 so the quickbolt can pass through it without pressur on the panel. Move inside and silicon them into place. Then you can start using a 3/8 hilti impact te to drill the concrete for the quickbolt. be aware that quickbolt can come out when screwing almost half a inch so drill deep enough. The only concern i have is the metal inside the concrete; if lucky you shouldn’t hit a rebar with the impact but it’s no problem if you remember where they were. To put the quickbolt in, screw the top with a coupling nut so it protect your treads before hammering it in, be sure to blow it out so no dust inside first. once done, can use a zipcut(or dremel) to flush them out with a blanket to protect your panel, and some silicon over them to rust protect.

David Lawrence says:

A fixing template would help align the bolt holes. I would mark some points on the tank and measure out where to drill the holes. Then trace that onto some paper creating a template to copy onto the acrylic. That way you only have to move the acrylic once and line up the points. I hope that makes sense. Great work on the gallery.

Free Swimmer says:

I will start by saying ” You had a huge role in my hobby’s direction ” !!  I just finished building my 540 gallon flatback hexagon plywood aquarium. I decided, by testing and experimenting, that my 75 gallon sump was perfectly adequate. It holds all my needed media in the towers you showed me how to build, and both heaters, and 1800gph return pump. Like you said about not needing the extra water volume. I understand that you have many things on your plate and everyone would appreciate having a response from you. Let alone, you actually checking out their work on their channel. But I do believe you would enjoy seeing what one of your followers did with what you showed them. “The Giant” Revealed..  Thanks !!  Truly enjoy your efforts in fishkeeping.

piwko4 says:

I don’t think the anchor bolts are necessary. All the water pressure will keep the panels in place. The silicone will just act like a gasket to prevent water leaking. This isn’t a glass tank where the silicone has to keep everything together.
If you still want to use the hardware, drill the acrylic so that the anchors fits through loose. Then, after you silicone the panel on, use a hammer drill for the anchors. Make sure you have enough silicone around the holes so that the dust doesn’t fall behind the acrylic. Install anchors and tighten loosely. Let the silicone dry for a couple day and then tighten some more. If you make them too tight in the beginning, all the silicone will squeeze out. If you wait for it to dry, it acts like a gasket and then compresses.

While you’re using the round over bit on the bottom for clearance, i would recommend rounding over all the exposed inside edges to protect the fish from bumping into sharp corners.. A 1/2″ roundover should do fine on the 1.6″ acrylic.

Garron Johnson says:

If it isnt too late, I have an idea that would be to see if you can cut the acrylic at sharper angles and still fit the wavemakers, if you can you can position the glass to create a circular flow around the tank, which creates a very visually interesting look (especially if you add live plants) and encourages “rotation” of the fish so that one fish (theoretically) wont stay in the back. It also would create the most water flow.

So in other words, for instance, if side A on Corner 2 is smaller than side B on Corner 2. Make side B on Corner 3 longer than side C on Corner 3. Where Corner 2 is the predetermined corner with wavemakers shown in the video. Although having 3 or 4 corners would put this method to much greater effect

Randy Velez says:


Michael Thomas says:

Drill through the acrylic and wall

sean DB7 says:

shout out to your wife for not killing you for all of this. I think she might deserve a fancy vacation after dealing with all of this. my GF almost killed me after I got a second tank. i can’t imagine how she deals with that lol

Keighn Littrell says:

Those panels well be nerve racking to install. Probably be easier to have someone help you, but I can’t say much I’m Mr. Solo Dolo lol.
Goodluck can wait to see the panels in and BTW that a pretty good idea on those wavemakers.
Usually see those in Saltwater very interested in how they’ll move that huge 2k freshwater tank.

ReeferGil says:


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