Sail Life – New diesel tank design and painting the engine compartment – DIY boat repair

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Painting the engine compartment and figuring out the new diesel tank.

Racor P510mam fuel polisher:

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BluewaterSuite BluewaterSuite says:

I hope your german is also in a good shape! 😉 Nimm diese Klappen, besonders für die Seitenmontage gedacht. Ich habe sie auch bei einem 180l Tank und es kommt nicht ein Tropfen raus!! Wenn Du den Tank säubern musst (Dieselpest) musst Du gut an den Boden kommen und das ist bei Deiner Topmontage nicht ganz einfach. Beste Grüße von Sylt! Sven

T N says:

Ice crystal in bottle isn’t cool, It’s supercool ! Pun intended 🙂

05Cat28 says:

I vote for a stainless tank, Also make sure you put some kind of flex joint from tank to bulkhead as the engine vibes may play havoc with the stiff stainless joints. I’d be more inclined to bring less plumbing to a manifold away from the inaccessible engine compartment with a shut off for each line. The polishing isn’t a bad idea but I wouldn’t want it running all the time and I wouldn’t want it to be free to syphon out when it is not running or a failure occurs. I’m curious to see what you will do with the head plumbing. As always I enjoy the vids.

raymond Moore says:

I would go stainless steel on the tank….I totally get your excitement about the fuel line routing, I’m one of those weird people too. Sometimes I run conduit at work and will move heaven and earth to have it turn out all parallel and straight!

schmism says:

Why have threaded pickup connections at the top of the tank if your going to run a pickup tube to the bottom of the tank inside, then U bend the stainless line on the outside and run right back down the same distance?

Why not just put the pickup fittings at the bottom front of the tank. First item connected to the tank is a ball valve. You may find that the price of the tank goes up with each fitting that has to be welded in. So a single pickup line may reduce the cost of the tank as well as the cost of stainless fittings. You also may consider using copper lines that you can bend instead of all the stainless fittings and lines.

Mark Fryer says:

Make sure you get 316L and not 316 for anything being welded (i.e. The tank). The L is for low carbon and means less chromium carbides are formed in the heat effected zone of the weld. This in turn means no chromium depletion and no rusting of the welds. You can tell the difference because the UNS grade for 316 is UNS S31600 and 316L is UNS S31603.

Erwin Kwant says:

Will it fit thru the door?

Will Hunt says:

Stainless steel from Canada. It gives me that good feeling seeing you wear the right mask for the job. I represented labor and saw many injuries from not using safety equipment.

Henry Morgan says:

Stainless steel is the material that makes you sleep well at night on your boat.  It’s only money!

Rick Vangunten says:

No berating here. I think you have done an excellent job of design, by considering all of your options. Thumbs up on your choice of Stainless Steal Tubing vs Hose. Having said that I personally would have the tank made out of Stainless as well.Stainless will definitely outlast Plastic and it will look darn spiffy.

medicmcauley says:

I vote that you make it out of which ever material makes the most sense to you. I think you’re doing a spiffy job Mads, keep up the good work.

Rune Eide Hansen says:

Next time you need SS fittings try have a look at they have all kinds of 316 fittings. I’ve used them multiple times without problems, they are cheap and fast.

Walter Foss says:

Stainless Steel !!

A Hendrix says:

use OBLONG HOLES for the inspection ports–if you place the baffle half way thru the inspection holes–then you’ve cut in half the available area to put your hand and arm in the tank when its time to clean it—and have it made from aluminum–its stronger than plastic–shouldn’t be affected as much as plastic in the Denmark winters–and should be cheaper than stainless

al math says:

Mads I think you remember my view on the tank material! Sorry we all have opinions. Total appreciate it your choice but I would go with stainless 316 would also pipe the fittings in stainelss and fully weld with tig, but that’s easy for me to say as I do that everyday. You could use swagelok fittings for the pipework very easy to work with, parker are another company that do the same fittings but a bit cheaper. I agree this would look very spiffy! The added bonus doing it this way is you can easily alter in the future or you could go the plastic route and use plastic pipe and fittings however note you have to wait 24 hours for the to cure after any modifications. What ever you chose this will be one of the best looking / layedout engine rooms on a 38 foot boat☺

ScubaTony Anschutz says:

another enjoyable bit of yammering on! Your attention to detail always amazes me but I get it. Especially the super spiffy SS pipes in parallel! Will give your AC wiring panel a run for its money. You will have to compare the two ones you get the pipes in!

cantsolvesudokus says:

100% Steel for engine room ! (also glad to see yokul is doing fine 🙂 )

Rich Hamel says:

I vote stainless tank, don’t forget to put some lights in the engine compartment.

Gustav Östensson says:

en stål tank

Bill Karoly says:

I think you’re doing an awesome job. I love your attention to the little details.

MsSnail75 says:

If it were my tank, I would consider fitting all the fittings on the inspection hatches rather than on the tank itself.

ed williams says:

Be sure that the dip tube for the supply can be install once the tank is in place (if you want it to be removable without removing the tank). Also think about access to be able to mechanically clean it if something ever gets stuck in it. The bottom of the dip tube will be the first narrow point in the supply system, so that is where the biggest chunks will get stuck. Chunks can also get stuck at each successively smaller diameter in the system, so be sure there are not a lot of them and that they can be checked and cleaned easily.

Think about a ‘T’ at each new restriction, rather than a elbow, so you can just remove a plug to clean it out. Think about installing a valve at the tank for each line that ever drops below the top of the tank, so if you have to break the line you don’t have to worry about the fuel in the tank.

You need to be able to do all that at sea, because if there ever are any chunks in the fuel you may only discover them after you have been running the engine for a while. Have the tools to do this (especially a rod to clean the dip tube) on board before leaving the dock for any extended time. I once had to rescue some one who did not have any way to clean his fuel line. He had plenty of fuel but the engine was starved and would not run.

Renegade Show says:

Mads, I love the idea with the stainless pipes instead of hoses, id suggest going with a stainless tank, and having that tank fabbed up with a piece of shallow stainless unistrut welded to the top and about 1/3 up from the bottom of the tank, that way you have something to attach all of your piping to. which will make it look really slick and organized.

Also when you design the internal baffles, I would draw them up with a good radius under each of the inspection ports so if you have to get your arm in there you are able to do so easily without getting cut.

One more thing, I am not sure if it is in the plans or not yet, but I would strongly consider running LED strip lights down the entirety of the engine compartment, including behind the tank, so you can work in there without holding a flash light. It will also be nice for showing off all of the hard work you have done in there.

If at all possible I would also consider having a way to dip your tanks to check the level, or even put in a sight gauge, electronic senders are notorious for going bad.

Benoit Ambry says:

You should read this before finishing the design of your tanks:

Henrik S. Pedersen says:

The diesel polisher output and return, so close togther? will you not just polish the same diesel

bob yandell says:

Why in the hell did the water not freeze in the plastic bottle until you opened it. There is an explanation somewhere Mads.

Henrik Olesen says:

Thanks for the video!
I would go for Stainless 316, with welded in tubes, instead of the threaded fittings, no reason to add more posible leak points then necessary. If you go for a Stainless tank, make sure its AISI 316 and pickled after its welded! think thats the problem with the old tank…

Brian Sparks says:

Stainless tanks…all of them. Please add fuel petcocks/shut-off valves to all tanks(supply & return lines,) the polishers, and the engine. It will act as a fuel spill mitigation and a boat security/anti-theft feature.

Tom Jones says:

Just a thought maybe you could use part of the old tank as a pan for the new tank put a hose fitting on it and run it to a see-through vessel and you always know if your tank is leaking

Norman Dyck says:

I noticed al lot of comments about a drain bung or valve to drain off the junk. My suggestion is to not have the fuel pickup at the bottom but a inch or so above the bottom to prevent picking up the junk. Also to prevent the pick up tube from sucking up the bottom of the tank suction is very powerful.

I hope you are enjoying North America and enjoying time with your girl friend. Happy sailing.

Wallace Grommet says:

S/V Tanksalot

Al Neuman says:

Stainless… to match the piping. I agree, it’s going to look spiff!

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